Volume 4, Issue 2

International Parti Poodle Gazette

April  2008

Training the service puppy to switch off a light.

Service Dogs: The Inside Scoop - Part II

Author: Jillian Gartner

The purpose of Part II of this article is to provide more information about service dogs, including more details about training methods and tasks, how to match dog to client, and how you can help. Part I was featured in the January 2008 Issue of the Gazette http://www.ippgazette.com/Issues/V4-1/FPV4-1.htm and covered a little bit of background, gave a description of the Poodle suited for service work, and talked about how to raise service puppies for their future roles in society.

TEACHING PHILOSOPHY

Service dogs are trained to assist people who have trouble doing certain tasks by themselves. A service dog should make life easier for the person, not more difficult because the dog needs a lot of encouragement to take action or takes a long time to follow through. This means that even after a dog with a generally good temperament (willing to please, “soft,” and without fear) has been selected, the methods of teaching need to be appropriate as well.

Service dogs should have a low level of initiative (so they don’t second-guess their owner), but they also shouldn’t give up if a task seems too difficult. If the keys need to be retrieved, it probably can’t be left until later. To get these results, the dog should be “taught” rather than “trained.” The method should encourage the dog to enjoy working and solving problems without stressing. Methods also should not include physical corrections or much manipulation which can make a dog less likely to work for someone who can’t administer corrections. Each dog should be raised as if they would be placed with a person who has a very high level of disability – someone who has almost no movement and a very weak voice. Getting each dog ready for this level will assure that the best selection will be made by personality (more on this below) rather than only having a couple of dogs with the needed skill level.

TEACHING METHODS

A combination of luring with food and using a clicker (or similar marker) is generally all that is needed. The leash can be used to give “cues” (gently tightening a couple of times to get the dog’s attention) but is otherwise slack at all times. The trainer’s voice is the main tool, but clapping hands or tapping a surface are used to target a certain response (generally getting the dog to focus on the area with eyes, or to use a paw or nose). Eye contact is not needed but encouraged if the dog offers it without any adverse side effects (such as bumping into the wheelchair) – the dog should be aware of his surroundings but not interested in investigating everything, easily focusing back on the handler.

Another very useful training tool is synchronization. Dogs are social beings, and as such they respond readily to even the subtlest cues we give. A dog trainer can use her emotions and body posture to illicit various responses from the dog and to even have the dog understand the mood in which it is intended – not just to follow through with the motions! The following are short examples of how synchronization can be used:

#1 Mavis wants to purchase a special vase at the china shop, but her service dog Jolly sometimes has trouble keeping her tail under control. Mavis assumes a worried look, and using a suspenseful voice tells Jolly to be “Careful.” Jolly lowers her tail and moves slowly, keeping a low profile from whatever dangerous stimulus might be lurking in the store . . . she is not fearful, but she will be cautious.

#2 It’s early morning, the birds are singing, and Tom is getting ready to leave for work. His service dog Lively is so excited that he can’t sit still enough for Tom to put his collar and service cape on. Tom relaxes back in his chair and calmly tells Lively to “Settle,” lowering his voice on the second syllable. Lively responds by sitting next to Tom and giving a big yawn . . . he has calmed down and is now ready to get dressed (in collar and cape) and go out.

#3 It’s been a long day and both Jason and his service dog Honey are tired. They are on their way home, but decide to catch an earlier bus than usual to get out of the summer humidity. As they cross to the final stretch, Jason sees a bus in the distance and is unsure if it is for them. Just in case, he gathers his energy and animatedly tells Honey “Quick, Quick!” and they speed to the bus stop arriving just in time. Honey understood that even though she was hot and tired, it was time to pick up the pace.

CORRECTIONS

Service dogs should be trained without the use of much physical correction, because their future partner may not be able to follow through with the correction like the dog’s trainer. A dog raised with physical corrections will be somewhat immune, needing stronger corrections over time to get through to him. In addition, some client’s will have spasms and the dog will have an easier time accepting jerks as accidents if there isn’t a history that these physical “corrections” are for doing something wrong.

Once the dog fully understands his tasks, corrections may be needed to let him know that an inappropriate behavior is not an option. For example, a service dog can’t pull on the leash when he should be heeling: if an 18-month-old dog is still pulling occasionally, the trainer can “draw the line” with their hand, showing the dog that they are not to cross in front of the knee. If a dog that age does forge, the trainer can “bump” any part of the dog’s body that crosses the line. If a dog is unresponsive to this type of correction, they may not have a soft enough personality for service work. If the client has dog training experience, it could work; however, unless they have compatible personalities, it won’t be a great relationship.


Bring Bowl

Bring Keys

Bring Leash

Bring Phone

SERVICE DOG VERSION OF COMMON COMMANDS

HEEL – For a Service Dog, heel position is further back than what is seen in the obedience ring. The dog’s nose should not pass the handler’s knee, whether walking or wheeling. This allows for easier turning but, more importantly, it helps the dog focus with fewer distractions as their line of sight on one side is blocked by a leg. This is especially helpful while training young dogs that are naturally curious. The dog also needs to learn the same position on the handler’s right side in case that is a better location for the future client. “Heel” is for left position and “Side” is for right position.

FINISH/HEEL POSITION – Service dogs are never allowed to cross behind their trainer’s back, as most clients will not be able to manage the leash. Dogs are taught a flip-finish (from a position in front of the handler, the dog flips around to the handler’s side), but because service dogs generally have calm temperaments, it is more of a circle that places them back at the handler’s side.

DOWN – Service Dogs frequently need to hold long down-stays so they should be comfortable while in this position. Most dogs will naturally roll onto a hip after a few minutes, but the trainer can also let the dog know they will be there for awhile. My program teaches a separate command to relax onto a side.

LEAVE IT – This command is crucial for a dog who has access to public locations. Not only is it unacceptable for the dog to sniff at food in a restaurant, they must never eat anything off the ground. Whether it is rotting food, animal feces, toxic substances, or another animal, service dogs may not eat, sniff, roll in, jump on, or otherwise be distracted from their job.

STAY – This command is rarely used for short periods, so it tends to be given for a “Down” position and means the dog should settle in for a rest. Ten to sixty-plus minutes isn’t uncommon (while their partner works, eats, etc.), but unlike in the show ring, it’s okay for the handler to praise and reinforce the dog . . . and the dog should not treat the attention as a time to get up.

COME – Formal command meaning run to handler and sit until given the next instruction. This is mainly used when exiting the car or in other situations of potential danger. The command “Here” is used as the informal recall and, if the dog is already nearby, the act of pointing a finger/hand tells the dog where to position his head, allowing for access to his backpack or moving out of the way.

STAND – Should be solid, long enough for the dog’s backpack to be looked through. Dogs also learn to “Brace” to provide stability for their handler.

RELEASE – In general, a service dog is given a follow-up command rather than being told “Okay.”  When he has finished working and is free to do whatever he wants, he is told “Release,” and he may run off to find a toy, come back and ask for attention, or he may choose to continue a nap – but, the choice is his, and he should have at least a full few minutes to enjoy it before starting to work again.

Some service dogs are now being taught to read flash cards.  These cards have either a text word or a stick figure drawing which the dog responds to as cues.


Down (text)

Roll (figure)

Roll (text)


Shake (text)

Sit (figure)

SOME ADDITIONAL TASKS

ALERT – Dog pushes entry button with nose to open door, or nudges person’s hand to get their attention.  The latter is followed-up with “What?” which instructs the dog to indicate whether he needs to go out, is thirsty, that someone’s at the door, etc.

BEHIND – The dog slows down and ducks behind the wheelchair.  Mainly used for going through narrow doors: the dog then returns to the same side he was originally on.

BETTER HURRY – Tells the dog that now is the time to potty.  Always used before going in any public location to make sure dog is not uncomfortable while there.

CLOSER – Dog should move closer to handler.

DRESS – Dog puts his head though collar or cape.

FIX – Used when the leash is under the dog’s leg, tells dog to untangle himself.

GET IT, BRING IT HERE, GIVE – The series of commands used when having the dog retrieve an item.

GO THROUGH – Dog moves in front of person, turns to face them, and walks backwards until there is enough space to move to the side again.  Used when going through a skinny passage or doorway when “Behind” isn’t suitable . . . either an automatic door that may hit the dog, or another reason to want the dog in sight.

LAP – Dog puts front legs on his partner’s lap to deliver an item, allow access to backpack, or to show affection.  The dog should come from the side and rest his legs across the lap to distribute the pressure, rather than all of his weight pressed down through the paws.

LIGHT/SWITCH – Commands for the dog to flick a light on with his nose, and to switch it off with his teeth.

LOOK – Tells dog to survey his surroundings for the item he should retrieve.

PUSH – Dog should use his front paws to push a door/object.


Snuggle - Hug
SNUGGLE – From the “Lap” position, the dog leans across his handler’s body and rests his head on the opposite shoulder.  This command has two purposes.  The first is as a hug – people who spend most of their time in a wheelchair rarely receive contact along their torso (try getting hugged when you’re sitting down), but a service dog can fit into the available space almost perfectly.  The second purpose is potentially life saving, though not many applicants will have a need.  If someone falls forward in their chair and either doesn’t have the mobility, strength, or energy to push themselves up again, their circulation can be cut off from the rest of their body.  Using the “Snuggle” command, a dog can learn to get under the person’s chest and push up and back until the handler is upright again. 

SPEAK – This command instructs the dog to call for help if, for example, the wheelchair’s power dies, the keys fell out of the dog’s reach, etc.  There are two additional cues for eliciting the dog to bark in other conditions – if the handler feels threatened by a stranger, he can tell the dog to “Guard,” allowing the stranger to think the dog is protection trained.  If the handler doesn’t want the stranger to realize he feels threatened, he can make a little click sound with his tongue . . . this sends the message that the dog is suspicious and taking matters into his own hands.

THANK YOU – Showing appreciation for a job well done.  This is especially nice to use in public, because it displays that the dog and handler have a close relationship and that neither takes the other for granted.

THAT’S IT – This encourages the dog to keep working at it – that he is on the right tract.

TUG – Tells the dog to tug on a rope that is attached to a door, or to pull off socks, pants, etc.

UP – The dog puts his front feet on the wall (to reach a light switch), or on a counter to retrieve or deliver an item.

VISIT – Dog rests his chin on his partner’s lap, either to deliver an item or to show affection. 

PERSONALITIES

We all know that dogs, like humans, have individual personalities.  We also know that sometimes we find a dog who meshes perfectly with us, and we say they are a “once in a lifetime” companion.  Yes, they are perfect for us, but they aren’t the one and only one we can ever have.  By assessing personality types, that perfect match can be made again and again – and that’s how service dogs are placed with the right client.

There are many different modes of assessment, but one that works very well is Wilson Learning’s four basic personality styles.  The quadrants are analytical, driver, amiable, expressive: everyone shows characteristics from multiple areas (if not all) – but one or two tend to dominate.  Here is a brief description of each social style:

ANALYTICAL: Slow, quiet, thoughtful, prefers to be on their own, doesn’t like physical contact

DRIVER: Fast, intense, formal, risk-taker, likes to be in charge, also doesn’t like touching

AMIABLE: Slow, easy going, quiet, friendly and inviting, forgiving, likes giving hugs

EXPRESSIVE: Animated, impatient, creative, focus of attention, funny, back-slapper, etc.

Amiables usually make the best service dogs, because they naturally want to help out without causing any trouble, are gentle, and get along with everyone.  That is what a service dog breeding program focuses on achieving.

To evaluate a person, there is a one-page questionnaire given to five people to fill out who are from different parts of the subject’s life (parent, child, boss, co-worker, employee, friend . . . ).  The questions relate to adaptability, willing to control, buckling under pressure, truthfulness and are on a rating scale of from 1-7 in how strongly the question applies.  For dogs, we use the same questionnaire but only have trainers or other people who have worked directly with the dog fill it out.  There are no right or wrong answers, just opinions – and there must be some truth if that was an impression someone received.  The marks are graded, averaged, and graphed.

Most people and dogs can be classified by a primary and a back-up social style, with the back-up being stated first – an analytical amiable is a gentle, friendly personality that also tends to think things through and make careful decisions.

MATCHING

When people look for a human significant other, we naturally seek an opposite personality – that is how a relationship stays balanced.  However, in a dog, we are looking for a friend, and especially in the case of a service dog, one who always looks to the person for a cue directing him towards the correct response.  Because of this, their social styles should be very similar.  While we are matching personalities, we may as well choose a dog that is slightly less assertive and social so that they naturally defer to their partner’s level of interaction between each other and in social situations: this is done by matching the secondary trait of the service dog (who is primarily amiable), with the primary trait of their new partner.  

BECOME INVOLVED

Service dog programs are non-profit organizations that rely heavily on volunteers and donations (monetary and in-kind).  They are generally small, placing only a few dogs per year, and use word of mouth as the primary form of advertising.  Any type of assistance is greatly appreciated!

Check online for programs in your area: http://www.adionline.org/ is a good source for large programs, and http://www.assistancedogunitedcampaign.org/ lists many smaller ones.


Harmony, service puppy
in training
LOCAL COMMUNITY: pet puppies, learn how to train, take dogs on field-trips, help in the office, represent at events, donate used equipment (crates, wheelchairs, crutches, etc.) . . .

BREEDERS: donate puppies, inform your puppy buyers of local programs to help hone their training skills and suggest social/therapy work, recommend programs to other breeders . . .

VETERINARIANS: offer a reduced cost for service dogs (both in-training and placed), especially for neutering and health testing . . .

PET SUPPLY COMPANIES: donate items such as crates, bowls, brushes, collars, and leashes, or offer to supply food at a discounted rate . . .

EVERYONE: send a donation in the name of a special person, consider sponsoring a puppy and, most of all, share your knowledge of assistance dogs with others – it will help make the world a better place.

Thank you all for reading about service dogs.  I hope this two-part article has been interesting and informative.  As I write this article, American Poodles at Work currently has its first puppy in-training!  I will submit regular reports to keep the IPPG community informed and up to date with how Harmony’s training is coming along.

FOR THE LOVE OF PARTI POODLES AROUND THE WORLD

~International Parti Poodle Gazette
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